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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.